|
Tips
for Light Air Speed Downwind (The "Mild Thing") Written
by Bob Hodges
Perhaps
one of the toughest points of sail to master for sailors new to the
A-class and uni-rig catamarans is downwind in light air up to the
point where you start thinking about making the transition to the
"Wild Mode". With no jib in front of the main, it is
important to learn how to trim and steer the boat not too deep or too
high for the best VMG.
I’ve
had some excellent tuning partners, competitors, and teachers over the
last couple of years including Ben Hall, Pete Melvin, Bob Webbon, and
Charlie Ogeltree. Here is a summary of setup and technique I’ve
learned and currently use:
- Downhaul –completely
off (very important), slight wrinkles showing
- Outhaul –ease
off to the point where you have at least 6" –8" of
maximum foot camber, sometimes more or less is better dependent
upon the how light it is and how smooth or choppy the water is.
Once you establish the maximum setting, it may be helpful to put
in a stopper knot or ball on the outhaul control line so all you
have to do is blow the control out of the cleat as you round the
weather or offset mark.
- Mast Rotation –You
should have a system that will allow at least 90 degrees of mast
rotation since this is the approximate apparent wind angle you
will be sailing downwind, more is better in this case.
- Traveller –The
position of the traveler can vary between all the way out to
4"-6" pulled in. This can depend upon the water
conditions. In flat water, it can work to let it out all the way.
In choppy water, it can work to pull it in 4"-6" and
ease the mainsheet tension to get more twist in the sail.
- Mainsheet tension
–Most sailors set the mainsheet tension and cleat it and then
focus on steering the boat. A good indicator is the set of
telltales placed in the top third of the sail. You probably want
enough mainsheet tension to firm up the leech and not stall the
top leeward telltale.
- Weight
Distribution –For the Boyer boats (Mk. IV, Mk. V, and Flyer), I
believe it is very important to sit right on the weather front
beam or even better right in front of it. This is probably also
the case with the new Bim XJ. You can typically sit just behind
the front beam on the Marstrom and A2 boats. What you are looking
for is to be sure the transoms are not dragging (the transom wake
should be clean and quiet, no gurgling). Moving 12" forwards
or backwards can make a significant difference. It does not seem
to work at all to sit forward on the leeward side of the boat.
This only creates more wetted surface area and drag.
- Daggerboards –both
boards max up (but make sure some amount of board is filling the
bottom of the daggerboard case)
- Rudders –Most
sailors will sail with both rudders down but several of the best
sailors in the class feel there is a slight speed advantage to
sail with one rudder kicked up. Practice this because if you are
sloppy or jerky getting the rudder up or down, you could lose more
than if you did not do it.
As you
round the weather mark, follow this list to transition the boat from
upwind to downwind modes:
- Steer to your
downwind course as you ease the mainsheet and traveller, settle
the boat down for 5 seconds.
- Release any
downhaul tension and rotate the mast to 90 degrees or more.
- Pull up the
weather board.
- Pull up the
leeward board.
- Raise the windward
rudder.
- Once you get the
boat setup and on course, you need to get into a fast steering
groove. You will probably not be consistent if you try to steer
the boat by just the telltales in the mainsail. Most sailors have
telltales on the forestays and or a telltale or Windex on the
front of the mast. Either way, you want to create a consistent
reference that you can steer up or down to and maintain a
consistent "groove". On my boat, I put a telltale on
each forestay at the height of the spreaders.
- I use the angle
between the weather telltale and the rotated leeward spreader as
my steering reference. I like the reference this high as it
indicates the true wind more accurately. I glance up at it about
every five seconds and check the sail trim also. I try to combine
this reference with the feel of the wind blowing across my face or
the back of my head. Looking forward, if I feel the wind starting
to blow on to the front of my face, I can probably steer down. If
I feel the wind starting to blow more on the side or back of my
head, I will start to steer up.
Steering
Steering
technique is very important. The less you move the rudders, the faster
you will be. The steering technique I like is to have the tiller
extension across the front of my body with it propped on my leg or
knee. This creates a hinge point where I can simply flex the tiller
extension back and forth with my wrist to steer very smoothly up or
down.
"JC"
strap
A new
tool I have been using since the 2004 North Americans is a "JC"
strap. The name comes from the shock cord system used by the Finn
class to hold their booms out as they sail downwind in light air. If
your boat has the standard downwind rotator like that supplied by
Boyer and also on the A2, sailing in sloppy water allows the mast to
pump back and forth which is not good for maintaining flow across the
sail.
In very
light air, you frequently have to put your foot against the mast or
boom to keep it at max rotation and quiet. The "JC" strap
system is extremely simple. I tie a bullet block to each forestay
tang. I next attach a line with two small loops in it right behind the
outhaul cleat on the boom. I install a plastic clip on one end of the
shock cord, attach to one loop on the boom and then run the shock cord
forward through the bullet blocks on the tangs and back to the other
loop on the boom.
Pull the
shock cord relatively tight and attach another plastic clip to attach
to the remaining loop on the boom. Without the mainsheet attached, you
will find that the shock cord at tension actually pulls out and up on
the boom. I have found the tension of the shock cord effectively holds
the rotation in place and does not allow it to pump back and forth if
the boat rocks. An additional benefit is realized when you gybe as the
shock cord speeds the rotation of the rig. The system in no way gets
in my way or affects the sailing of the boat. I don’t think the
system creates any significant drag or windage.
Since I
have been using it, I feel I have been consistently faster on downwind
legs. Winning the light air race at the 2004 North Americans was proof
to me that this system has some merit. It only costs about $20 to
install on the boat which is a much cheaper alternative than going to
another system to lock the rotation.
I hope
these tips help you find more downwind speed. Now get out on the water
and start practicing!
Bob Hodges
|
|
Over
the past few seasons it has become quite clear that many people
who have been experiencing speed or power problems have had little
basic knowledge of what they can do with the mast settings. It is
clear what do with the cunningham, simply pull on it to get the
pressure out of the sail as you need, but often the mast is left
unattended to, as a last priority. In fact it is one of the most
important speed controls on the boat. It is important to
understand how to use it, and what you want to have in the sail
shape for different conditions. It is not so easy to just come up
with numbers and angles that will suit every mast and sail so I
will try to make some key points to help understand this
correctly.
- The more pre
bend set in the mast the more effect mast rotation has on the
sail shape.
- The effect of
the spreaders means that the more the mast is rotated
backwards, the more the lower mast section can bend forward
(in the direction of the boat) and the stiffer the top section
becomes. Leaving the cunningham tension out of the discussion
at the moment, the result would be that the sail becomes
flatter in the bottom and fuller in the top.
- Rotating the
mast more forward allows the spreader to start to work and the
lower mast section becomes stiffer in the forward direction
and the top becomes softer backwards. The result is the sail
will become deeper in the bottom and flatter in the top.
- Cunningham
pressure flattens the sail and will tend to flatten the top
more than the bottom since the top of the mast is unsupported
and more free to bend.
Understanding
the sail shape that works best in the differing conditions is then
very important. For example in Flat water you would like to have a
very even profile through the sail from top to bottom with good
power in the top and the possibility to pull the mainsheet quite
hard without stalling the back of the sail. On flat water you can
sheet hard and point higher. By wave conditions you would want
good power down low in the sail and have the top more open and
twisted. This gives you power and the twisted top allows the boat
to accelerate easily letting you steer around more and power the
boat through the waves easier. Generally you can’t point as high
as the boat on flat water but because of the waves you can achieve
a much better VMG (velocity made good).
The
typical example is that with increasing wind the sailor will pull
the Cunningham hard but not adjust the mast rotation to go with
it. The effect of the Cunningham is flattening the sail, but more
in the top. This allows the leech to open. The boat may feel ok
but often the leech is to open and you can’t point high enough.
This setup can be good in big waves but on flat water the sailor
would like to have the leech standing much straighter so they
should rotate the mast further back. If you go back to our
original points you can see that the mast becomes stiffer in the
top and can bend more in the bottom. This is therefore powering up
the top and flattening the bottom of the sail. With the Cunningham
pressure you can sheet on hard and point high with good speed.
The
other typical mistake which occurs, is that the sailor by strong
wind, simply pulls the mast back in line with the boom and pulls
full Cunningham pressure. Because the mast rotation is too far
back the sail becomes too full in the top and too open in the
bottom. The sail will have a lot of twist which some sailors think
is good for strong wind, but because of the top of the mast
reaching its maximum stiffness in the aft direction of the boat
the sail will remain too full in the top. The end result is a sail
which is twisted to far and with too much profile for the strong
wind. The twist causes you to loose pointing ability and the depth
is causing excessive drag, just slowing you down. You are in
effect going slower and lower than the correctly trimmed boats.
Spreader
rake is also another significant factor in setting up you rig. It
also plays a part in how much the rotation angle affects the depth
of the sail. That can be a whole subject of its own, so for now I
make just a few comments. Try to think of pre-bend as controlling
the position the mast takes its bend. The more pre-bend you make
in the mast the lower the mast likes to bend. The lower the mast
tries to bend the straighter the top section becomes. The flatter
the pre-bend the more the top section tries to bend. The normal
reaction of sailors is to increase the pre-bend for strong wind to
flatten the sail and reduce it in light wind to increase
power. Principally that is correct, but it must be
incorporated with the rotation to get the right balance in the
sail. Like most things, too much or too little can be harmful. It
is a great failure made by many sailors to flatten the spreader
angle to far reducing the pre-bend in the mast to almost straight.
For light wind this is doing more harm than good. The heavier
sailors also often request more luff curve because they are
looking for power. With more luff curve and flatter
spreaders light wind speed can quickly come to an end. The sail
will become very full down low with a deep entry angle from the
mast and a very closed leech section. When you get the first wind
in the sail you may get a feeling of power, but you may also
experience the boat just wanting to fly a hull but not wanting to
go easily forward. The boat will not point and will not
accelerate.
In
many cases it is actually better to go the other way. By very
light wind you can increase the pre-bend to open the lower part of
the sail and reduce the entry angle of the sail behind the mast.
With the rotation angle set correctly to get the head standing up
just the right amount you can be very fast. Just remember flat is
fast and deep is slow. It has a lot more to do with entry and exit
angles of the sail to achieve height and power.
Amongst
sail makers there are many different ideas, and history has proven
that there are many ways to build fast sails. The most important
thing is that the sailor can understand how the sail should work
and manage it well. Also restrictions on materials and designs in
the boats themselves change the way the sail has to work to
achieve the best results. We design our A class sails to allow the
mast to be rotated well back. The reason being, that the mast
itself creates a lot of profile over the rig and therefore it is
very important to be able to reduce the wind age over the mast by
rotating back as the wind increases. At the same time the sail
must flatten rather than get fuller. That is the secret to
success.
Good
sailing.
Andrew
Landenberger
|
|
A
personal account of an 'A' Class Cat sailors battle against the odds
‘Hey, do you fancy sailing around the Isle of Sheppey? ‘ my mate
Rick said on the phone one day, a couple of years ago. ‘…its in
three weeks time!’ he added. ‘Isn’t that the South
East’s version of the Appalachain mountains with it’s own micro
climate and local currency?’ I quipped, ‘That’s the one!’ he
replied.
So, I sailed my first Isle Of Sheppey race in my Rutland based Topper
Topaz 16CX. The perfect boat, it would appear, for a couple of long
distance rookies, having, it appears, full off-road capability for
those tricky little grounding moments. We loved doing it!
Fast forward to Sept 11th 2010.
I was awoken from slumber, in what has variously been described as my
‘Retro Motor home’, by the sound of the wind rushing through the
trees under which I was parked at the Catamaran Club on Sheppey.
That sounds a bit… blowy, I thought, but dismissed it as a feature
of my camper. Its ability to amplify and joyfully enhance any
given weather condition has been commented on, light drizzle sounds
like a torrential downpour. However, this time it was accurate.
It was, indeed, quite blowy. Force 4-5 in fact. I know
this because I looked at the live weather link on the IOS club
website, just after I had checked their webcam feed to see if our
boats were still in view and not off to a car-boot somewhere in Kent
behind a white transit with an England sticker on the back.
So, I got up, ate a black pudding – its what you have to do when you
are from the North, and jumped into fellow Rutland ‘A’ classer
Dave Lowe’s car to get the rest of our kit, sails etc. to the club.
The cat start was due at 11.30, so we had plenty of time to rig and
check things thoroughly. I altered my spreader length and Dave
studied the offshore South Westerly wind with increasing disquiet.
It was his first time, so had no idea of what to expect, other than
something to do with a bridge. The organization on the day
at the club is pretty impressive. Cars and trailers arrive on
the sea wall where they are rigged and then taken to the beach to
await their various starts. Spring tides mean that the slow
handicappers and boardsailors, due off at 10.00 have to trek some way
to get floating.
The start was postponed 30 minutes to allow everyone to get sorted and
then we just watched the boards zip off, followed more sedately by the
slower fleet on the first 9 mile leg to the end of the island.
Eventually time came for me to get 150sq ft of finest carbon
reinforced Mylar into the air. At this point Dave started to
turn a little green, and the wind went up another gear. ‘What
could possibly go wrong Dave?’ I shouted over the shrieking shrouds,
‘What’s the worst that could happen? Well, death, obviously,
but give it a go anyway!’ I said. He blinked a little and said
‘Oh sod it, why not!’ Game on!
Out at the starting area, the water was pretty flat considering.
We milled about a little, some way upwind of the downwind start gate
and then suddenly the others all started. We had somewhat
misjudged the sequence by about 3 mins, so, with a ‘Tally Ho
Chaps!’ the two ‘A’ cats were unleashed into the force 5-6 wind.
The race is clockwise and the first leg is about Sou-South East.
The wind was a Southwest so; a broad reach is was then. Now,
‘A’ cats aren’t really known for their downhill performance,
especially with Dave and myself on board. They tell us that you
should ‘Wild Thing’ and luff up enough to fly a hull, then
gradually bare away as the speed increases, keeping the hull flying.
Wrong - I defy anyone to dare to do that in this wind!
We just concentrated heading for the first turning point and not
dying. Now, I have a theory that eventually, if you go so fast,
the thrill of the speed will overcome the fear of death. This
was proved correct – we were both hammering along at a good
18-19kts, catching and slowly overhauling most of the cat fleet ahead.
Only the seriously mentally ill ones dared fly a kite in these
conditions, as cats were pitch poling at regular intervals. It
was then that we discovered the ‘A’ cats ability to crash into the
back of a wave, take green water up to the beam and just come up again
for more. Neither of us ever felt like we were going to get
wiped out like some of the Darts around us. Even when my leeward
rudder kept popping up due to a malfunctioning bungee, ‘Das Boot’*
just kept blasting on. Dave was pulling ahead from me, as I had
to periodically crawl leeward to get the rudder down again – that
was exciting, I can tell you!
We rounded the first point and hardened up gradually onto a fine
reach. This is when, for Dave, the wheels came off. He was
about 100 yards ahead of me when I saw an explosion of spray and his
boat went over. Brilliant! This was my chance – do I
finish him off with a head shot or just leave him? But in the
end, I just slowed right down more out of a morbid sense of curiosity
really, but offered to pick him up. However, a rescue boat was
nearby to Dave bravely shouted for me to carry on and to save myself.
Turned out his trapeze wire had snapped – too much strain after that
big steak the previous night, I think. That was the last I saw
of him until the finish. Now I was alone…..
At the end of the island, at Shellness Point, you have to turn right
and sail on a beat up the river mouth. This is where the fun
really starts. Wind against tide. High wind against spring
tide, it doesn’t get much more fun than that! 4ft waves with a
frequency to match. Up one, through one. Trying to trapeze
and point is most entertaining.
This was my mental low point. I was genuinely regretting setting
out at all. Tacking a cat is all about getting the sequence
right and carrying speed into the turn so the rudders work for as long
as possible. I tried to go about onto port 4 times. It
seemed impossible to get enough speed to get the bows through the
wind. This is where the usual supreme advantage of the ‘A’
cat is, it’s extreme light weight, is really working against you as
the bows keep being blown away. It got so bad that I even
considered gybing! But then, I managed to pull of a three-point
turn, backing the rudders and getting the bows through the wind.
Great! Now off through those lovely waves again on the other
tack this time! I have since spoken to a few other cat sailors
about that area and was gratified to find out that it wasn’t just me
being rubbish. Turns out, we all are!
Now another issue suddenly entered by mind - Sandbanks. I
remembered on the map that there were a few in the river entrance so
decided to stay near the big cardinal nav buoys. Any thought
about racing tactics had long gone by now. I had to beat the
course above all. Trapezing is a great way to power up the boat.
Getting your feet taken away by a big wave so you are dragged along
parallel to the boat isn’t. After the third time I was getting
bored of that, so just sat on the side and hiked out like a laser
sailor.
A couple more tacks, as close to the banks as I dared allowed me to
eventually lay a line right up the river. My earlier rig
adjustments hadn’t worked and my pointing was appalling. I was
a good 2-3 points lower than the Unicorn I overtook half way up the
river. But I also noticed that he was tapering much higher as
well, so I gave it a go again. Five minutes later I was being
dragged along like a harpooned dead whale again and had stopped seeing
the funny side by now.
With the Captain Pugwash cartoon waves behind me I started to think
about hunting down the boats ahead. One by one I passed them, some of
them even managing a smile as I suddenly took all their wind,
tea-bagging them into the river. Feeling guilty about doing
this, I eventually only reserved windward overtaking for the flashy
and coolest looking crews. Good Karma I thought.
All by now seemed to be looking better. The strong wind was very
gusty in the river, but there were hardly any waves. My GPS
speed recorder states my highest speed of the race, some 23kts on this
leg. You could water-ski on that!
At North Ferry, the river bends almost 90 degrees right. I
decided to stay in the middle of the river and bore away onto a broad
reach past a very smelly factory complex and started to prepare myself
mentally for the highlight and singularly unique feature of this race.
THE BRIDGE.
In order to do a full lap of Sheppey, it is necessary to pass under
two bridges. One lovely great lofty affair carrying the dual
carriageway to Sheerness and the older lifting bridge for the
original road. The rules state that you have to pass under this
bridge on the Southern mainland side of the river. This bridge
is less than 13ft clearance at full tide. A 9m high ‘A’ cat
mast won’t fit, as don’t any of the others. So, an ‘It’s
A Knockout’ style capsized boat race under the bridge takes place in
front of tens of highly amused spectators. In the early days,
the approach was quite easy and open, leaving plenty of space for the
various boats to come in, be capsized and pushed/pulled under by
willing helpers, unfortunately none dressed as huge Gonks or the like.
However, recently a rival boat club has built a steel pontoon nice and
close to the bridge, which very much restricts the access to the
bridge for more than one boat at a time. This year, that club
even decided to moor an extra steel barge at the end of this pontoon
just for a laugh and flatly refused to move it for the race despite
being requested to. The brotherhood of the sea, eh!
So, I arrive at this bridge luckily in a gap in the boat traffic, jump
off and get capsized. Das Boot is pulled through in good
time. However, I had pulled up the daggerboards in their slots,
but not removed them, as they would then have fallen off, and probably
sunk. When the boat was righted, the starboard one dropped fully
down in its slot. Thinking I was clear, as I was chest high as I
jumped on, I promptly sailed into a submerged concrete jetty
extension, probably placed there by that other club, for this very
purpose, and rammed the board one inch into the rear of the
daggerboard slot, splitting the hull for 3 inches and bringing me to a
total halt. Exhibiting signs of grief and distress, I jumped off
and capsized the boat again to check the damage. The dagger was
stuck fast in the hull. Great, I thought, now I have the
world’s first keelboat ‘A’ cat.
After a quick local search, one of the helpers found a block of wood
with which I used to hammer the board forward back into its correct
slot and allowed it to be raised and lowered as usual. The crack
closed up but was leaking. So, off I went on a reach again,
narrowly missing yet another steel pontoon as I put my rudders down
again. Only 5 miles to go, and all downwind at various angles.
I still stayed in the centre of the channel and started to try to
catch all the boats that had passed me during the bridge incident.
A couple of Solo dinghies capsized whilst gybing right in front of me
and, if a cat can do a four wheel slide to avoid things, it did do.
Not far to go now. Past Sheerness port, broad reaching past the
odd crashing RS 200 when my starboard rudder popped up. So I
thought I would leave it up anyhow and gybed around Garrison point for
the final reach to the finish on the starboard tack. Then,
as I was starting to ‘Wild Thing’ guess what? Yes, the port
rudder came up too! Lovely – I now have a boat going 15kts
with no means of directional control. Dumping the mainsheet, I
got the starboard rudder down again for the last time and carried on
to the finish.
2hrs 35mins on elapsed time. The 7th fastest lap of the day. Ah
but here comes the rub. ‘A’ cats do not have a very favourable
handicap for some reason – they have no hankie to wave to make us
faster downhill, yet they are still rated about the same as an F18.
Granted, they are up there with the fastest of the big cats upwind,
and do it with far less fuss. That is why I was placed 59th
overall. However the game was the winner Brian! I beat the
course and that was why I did it. Dave finished 7 minutes
later after also sticking it into a sandbank at 18kts, sending him
around the mast like in swingball.
Lessons learned – don’t try to tune the mast unless you actually
do know what you are doing and why. Also, ‘A’ cats don’t try to
kill you in high winds contrary to what you lower bowel is telling you
- they just lap it up and come back for more, and at no point did I
ever really feel it was going to get out of control. And finally, get
fitter not lighter.
Anyone for the Forts Race next year?
* Das Boot is what I christened my boat. Its German registered
you see..
Gordon Upton
GER 510
|